Repair — logbook Toyota Corona, 1989
I would like to immediately express my gratitude to Denis Obukhov and Ivan Yuzhanin for help with the mechanics.
Well, let's get started.
We cut off the entire braid, marking each wire and pull it out.
We split the engine, even from the photo you can see that it has problems with oil zhorom.
The suspicion was that the pillow was torn, I tried to get it, it was necessary to lower the beam, scored, and so there was enough work.
I also found that the power steering was rubbing his hose great, bent it off, it seems to be tolerable for the time being, it will still live.
I drove through all the services and disassemblies that are in the city and found only the remnants of the engine compartment spit 4S-FE. Remains because a lot of things had already been cut off from it, but without a choice. We take and embroider both braids, look for the same connectors and transplant. Sew back and thread through the hole in the salon. And we begin to solder each wire, with a thermotube and lay it in a bundle. I can solder and work in general, in my specialty, and because I do myself, then everything is very carefully.
Well, everything is soldered, we throw on Akum and check the central locking, sensors, power windows, signaling, etc., everything responds, which makes me very happy.
We begin the final installation and assembly.
Then (there is no photo just for the word) we clean and sort through all the seals on the cylinder head. We take the cylinder block, everywhere there are heaps of boiled oil ... hmm. There is a lot of oil under the rings, almost all the seals got from the former owner, his hands never reached the bust. We change all the seals on the cylinder head and gaskets, caps. On the bottom of the ring and liners, because. were badass, the last owner did not change the oil, because. she ate it not childishly, then considered topping up = replacement. (I ate 1 liter per 200 km at a speed of 3000, at 2000 less, in general, very decently) as a result, the oil was dirty and sometimes it wasn’t even on the dipstick at all, so it was possible not to keep track, from the court and badass.
Everything has been changed, assembled, tightened and aligned according to the marks, then we change all the anthers, which can be seen in the photo from the fire. Trying to start, cheers she's alive))) trying to go, goes. We put it under the window the next day and the next day at idle.
Then we make a hood from a spray can (skin, correct, putty, primer, paint, varnish), then I’ll change it somehow. We go do insurance and maintenance.
Well, we are waiting for the end of the break-in. Now again there is no money, and the run-in is already 1350 km. Soon stepukha will change oil soon, the level is kept clearly even after 4000 rpm, 3 * pah some smudges, only a little near the pan, and everything is dry on top, only dust. I think to fill in synthetics now (it was semi-synthetics).
The photo of what she is now on the main page.
I want to note that this is my first acquaintance with the internal combustion engine, before that I didn’t crawl so deeply, but everything happens for the first time)
Vacation)
I will also go soon.
If it's not difficult to throw it off later. The electronic version never hurts.
Respect and respect in advance.))
MaxX
I have a manual on the engines in electronic form, if necessary, I can share
Greetings from Tomsk) I
bought myself a 1989 Markovnik device. 4s fi. Problem with the
cooling
fan
did a great job, respect)
near the oil itself eats about 1 liter per 1000 km ... so I think I can make the engine capital in the winter, but the couple are scared to climb there)))) Can you tell me what kind of liter did you use when taking the engine off, or did you do everything yourself along the way?
Well, people helped me, they themselves work in the service, and the basics for all cars are the same. To clarify and check the dimensions, there was and is a book on the engine purely. There are 3S-FE, 4S-FE and 4S-Fi engines. It depends on what you have, are there any oil smudges on the engine or is it dry, but there is a zhor. If dry, then either rings or caps. If, again, a dry engine, then most likely the valve stem seals, just with whom I talked, they often tan. It changes quite simply, you can do it alone, if there is a crack in size.
Do you remove the camshafts, take out the shims or expansion joints, remove the spark plugs and raise the pistons one by one to DVN? dry it out, remove the kolmak (it’s better to buy a good puller) or, as we did, hook it up with a bent nail, then check the seat so that there are no remnants of the old cap (gum) and or if you find a press fit, then press in 2 clicks or do the press in yourself, for example, from aluminum tubes (we bought a fitting, but it turned out to be G, with burrs) well, then you collect everything, put on crackers, etc.
Raise to DVN so that the valve does not catch and fall into the cylinder. If it falls, it's an ass. Then remove only the cylinder head, and then put a new gasket, new antifreeze or if you drain the old one, add oil a little, tighten everything according to the dyno.