Trying synthetics - logbook Toyota Corona 1989
Well, not so long ago I changed the oil, drained the old oil with washing for 5 minutes, by the way, these 5 minutes are a good wash, that they are poured into the old oil (first I looked at the oil color on the dipstick, it was like amber, filled the flush, drove, drained, oil blackening...).
I filled it with synthetics (there was semi-synthetics), and as luck would have it, it started to drip, I began to look where, yeah, like many along the seam of the pallet, these sealants don’t hold, okay, I think:
— I’ll move out, buy a sheet of oil-resistant rubber, cut out the gasket and I will plant.
The oil is new, light, not visible on the dipstick. With grief in half flooded, left. In the morning I check the level, hmm, it’s normal, but it seemed to be running great, it’s been fine for a week, it’s just a little, it’s gone a little, well, that means I can make it to the replacement, I still bought a sheet of rubber, and a new filler plug (the old one has a zero thread, I thought I wouldn’t twist it when I took it off) In general, the level is still holding up, even though it runs well. Previously, before the capital, if I gave 3000 revolutions, then the oil was almost like gasoline, it left with the "same" speed, now not much is known where.
And now the most important thing, impressions.
So far, except for a smudge, everything else is only positive. Here are some of them:
- Previously, when entering a turn in the city on the mechanics of 2nd, it's still too early, and 3rd no longer pulls, now it pulls on the 3rd engine.
- Power has increased significantly, the car accelerates confidently from a standstill, as it should, and earlier acceleration at the beginning, where the heaviest load was sluggish.
- The warm-up rate has increased and it can be seen with the naked eye, at the same temperature overboard, the warm-up speed drops in 1.5-2 minutes, against about 5 minutes. previously.
In general, if anyone wonders whether it is worth pouring semi-synthetics, then the answer is worth it (if the engine allows).
ps oil Esso synthetics, semi-synthetics before this same brand was. Oil 990r (with a discount of 960r) and washing 180r HI-GEAR.
Issue price: 1 140 ₽
Right now I’m racking my brains on what to pour into 4s-fi ...
the previous owner didn’t pour anything on the campaign)
and right now, after the timing belt has been fixed, an anti-mobile is going to ... I’m thinking synthetics or semi-synthetics ...
For the summer, semi-synthetics, because. and so hot, where to overpay more for it. For example, I change in about 6 months I run 10,000 km, i.e. roughly seasonal. For the winter, synthetics, because. at -35 it’s not like without it, and in summer you can even have mineral water) like TOYOTA (it’s mineral).
If you do not know what happened, then it is better with washing. Flushing or 5 minutes, a matter of taste. The manager in the store convinced me for a long time that the flushing is not clear what kind of G and it partially remains during the replacement, and for 5 minutes it is poured into normal oil, when drained, you have a little, but normal oil.
Synthetics washes the engine well, and is more liquid, so if the seals are not new, then it's better not to risk it.