Noise isolation — logbook Toyota Corolla 2003

At one point (on the third day of owning a car) I got tired of driving with a Japanese radio and one speaker in the driver's door! Listening to the only radio that was caught - “Police Wave”, Krasnodar residents will understand what I mean ...
It all started with the installation of the simplest MP3 reading head unit - it was the PIONEER of the most entry-level, I don’t remember the model. But I took better acoustics - Kicx of the PD 7.5 series.
After installation, I naturally began to be annoyed by the rattling of door cards at a volume above average. It was decided - you need to glue the doors, and away we go:

Cards can be removed very easily - we unscrew two screws in the armrest and one under the plug in the door opening handle

Then we carefully disconnect the fastening clips one by one - it is better to do this in warm weather, when the plastic is malleable and not fragile. It is advisable not to use a screwdriver, so as not to damage the paint and not to bend the plastic panels.

This is what the factory door soundproofing looks like

Already without her

Now you need to glue the inner surface of the door with a vibration damper. If you need a stone door for knocking, you need to glue the entire surface, perhaps even in several layers. I have an entry level, so I do not glue the entire door

Do not forget to thoroughly roll out the pieces of the glued vibra.
Having finished with the inside, proceed to the outside. The principle is the same.
In the photo, I sealed the acoustic hole in the door, because. I don't plan to put speakers there.

Then all this economy needs to be sealed with a layer of noise-absorbing material - in this case, this is an 8mm barrier.

Just do not forget to pull the wires out of the door, I forgot in the first door :)

The trunk is not fotkal, but there the principle is the same, only the materials are twice as thick.