Crap Blog. Clutch VVT-i
Here I am not going to consider the principles of operation of this system.
They repeatedly described on the Internet, however briefly, dryly, and sometimes unclear. To roll the article on page 4, to make pictures, real video, to tell the little things to install a new clutch, why don't they work, describe the details of the process in detail to their estimated 15 people reading this blog? I don't have time for this.
This record is for people who suddenly going to fix his clutch VVT-i.
Clutch VVT-i collected on the 5 sided bolts
Collected that nobody understand ) if they did in vain?
This moment and try to consider.
By any means untwist the bolts
And select new, look what we have at hand tojtovska
the bolts from the oil pump a little short.
From the cover of GRM a bit long. Take them and shorten.
The clutch in the parsing looks like this:
Major components
1. Base with star
2. The stator
3. The rotor
4. Seals
5. Stopper
6. Spring stopper
7. Cover
All. The device is not tricky. I can even say simple as 2 pennies. Why then are there not to climb and not to fix? :)
That in General can break in this simple mechanism?
The answer is simple and obvious... EVERYTHING.
1. Cover.
The stopper departing under pressure from the oil gets into the cover and crawl through it, leaving the furrow, at some point naesosa a sufficient groove for the wedge clutch, go crazy it :)
Here, it is possible to struggle. If the wear is very small, you can Polish it with sandpaper nulevkoy that, in principle, done in the photo above. But without much enthusiasm. As protecive one place change its shape making a cavity, which later is fraught with leakage of oil between the chambers, pressure loss and error coupling.
So with a large enough wear you can fight. only selifanov the entire plane, e.g. on magnetic plate. well, I think for troubles (no friends or you yourself are not a happy owner of the devices) 500-1000R
2. The base and the rotor
Metal friction pairs. Wear and tear is inevitable
Again, you can shlifanut both of them on the magnetic plate again 500-1000R (although probably more so in the case of grinding of the rotor will change its height accordingly you will need the stator shlifanut well the same amount)
3. Stator and rotor
Metal friction pairs, visit each other, dealing damage ), plus starts in the cold without sufficient lubrication, etc.
Here we get such funny images
It is more difficult. grinding burrs will add clearance and as a result, leakage...
But in this case we have the plastic seals
4. Plastic seals
They consist of a gasket and a metal plate spring for pushing.
Oddly enough, they also wear out )
You can pick up seals of greater thickness and plates with a higher hardness and in the way.
5. Stopper
The stopper in Resilovo the clutch cone, the wear is actually not subject. spring does not lose its rigidity during the life of the clutch.
But the stopper groove on the base... has the ability to break into the oval
You can weld, then shlifanut etc.
My opinion... I Consider it inappropriate to fix a clutch with a fairly strong wear. While not strong enough as it works.
The rest is up to you.
To disassemble/assemble is not hard. Intuitively, what part is where and how.
The tightening torque of the cover bolts I've measured about 13-14 Nm.
Good luck.
Lifehack
:) that's great, but I am not going to put Gigot parts in your motor )
And I have the had the bolts from Toyota ) Which by the way, even in places its legal screwing withstand the specified torque.
Gigot-details) This 5!
Lifehack
:) that's great, but I am not going to put Gigot parts in your motor )
And I have the had the bolts from Toyota ) Which by the way, even in places its legal screwing withstand the specified torque.
However for the star :)
damn bylob not bad, understandable words to explain how its bolted to the camshaft and how to check.
Just in case. Bolts that are not expensive :) so Vain I think about WHA... Clint gathered budget gradjanski 1.8 motor, on the stand took 204hp.with. and 21kg of time :) higher than saliki :)
:) that's great, but I am not going to put Gigot parts in your motor )
And I have the had the bolts from Toyota ) Which by the way, even in places its legal screwing withstand the specified torque.
that is new it is just broken or what? due to the fact that oil has not got where it is necessary...
no clutch, no activation. and may not be in fact her device.
and the clutch may not work for many reasons
well, the new clutch may not work because of not activation. the installation process should be there to blow)) or am I wrong?)
Think different, although it is possible that one and the same, a lot of things Toyota does on contract production. Mitsu think that too.
And installation of all couplings VVT sounds like.
About metal, to be honest not focused, as was mentally overwhelmed by the repairs. Playground cover and steel stator and rotor is also likely, but possibly silumin. Will look next time
The owner gave there looks like the oil stayed in the thread and cracked the block.
Handsome ))))
Inherited "inherited" motor then fixed ? Wertish and studs for example or a piece of the block the threads ripped out ? )
Our deer is also smeared and scored channels in the head on Hideki on the motor Passat 1.8 20 valve. After the second removal of the head pulled the threads out of the aluminum block, and changed the engine to the customer.
Unfortunately... Yes :(
Still there are individuals spotting everywhere. Although tojtovska motors sealant during Assembly only attaching the pallet and drop on the joints
But not for that.
Life gave me a car which had to understand a lot of the things that I needed. The first such thing many years ago was a system VVT-i and VVTL-i. The service workers then still stupidly did not know what it is. And pieces of the sealant in the channels of this system were not uncommon.
I am inclined to think that the mileage of this clutch for 200k, plus she had the good fortune to stand on the knocking engine, with an ellipse peregrinovna, and trains. the motor was present and havannah traces of oil and traces of overheating.
And the most interesting that this clutch was still working, but already on the verge of judging by the innards.
Lying several couplings, one coupling, which has been knocking for 2 motors and one hundred percent had the bypass oil chambers. Can take it apart
Wear like an overheated engine or using oil of poor quality. Well, or Toyota uses such a "nice" metal. Although it is possible this pozarastali T. walked 500 miles? What kind of oil operated this engine?
serp8007
Interesting stuff...
Crackling when you run the clutch VVTi from what's going on, and what causes...I do not know?
From friends on the Camry with the 2GR-FE after 120 thousand began crackling at startup. Switched from 5W-30 to 5W-40 crackle is gone. Oil change every 8-10 thous Now the mileage is under 200 — everything is fine.
Lifehack
The crash when running from the clutch? And it may not tolkl clutch to pop.
that is when you run most likely creates a stopper insufficient crush oil he goes back and forth.
The effects of conventional, stopper done himself a groove and the coupling Linnet at some point. Light up mistake. In principle, nothing dangerous for the motor will not.
If the engine from silence to start, then cod will be no more. The oil is warmed, the pressure is the same and cod is no more. I think actually the oil pressure can be the reason? More like the clutch is not getting up to the stopper. And about torque — have you tried to tighten the lid with the same time and to ride? Do not spin bolts?
Well, it is. The ride can be long. She chattered on and on.
I have the truth on 4gr's not cracking anything.
YES, the crash when you start it the clutch trouble engine 2 and 4GR////same for the Camry...for reviews, ride for years, but in fact be changed of course.
The crash when running from the clutch? And it may not tolkl clutch to pop.
that is when you run most likely creates a stopper insufficient crush oil he goes back and forth.
The effects of conventional, stopper done himself a groove and the coupling Linnet at some point. Light up mistake. In principle, nothing dangerous for the motor will not.
Interesting stuff...
Crackling when you run the clutch VVTi from what's going on, and what causes...I do not know?
Not really. The flywheel is still inertial rotation body. And it goes back and forth )
After a 40-VKI very fast phase fail, 50 - not really -) immediately fly to the nearest thousand. Ford is different.
So if it's there in the frost may be, so important "cold" viscosity, but not "hot". Ie 0w will work with 5w — no. When there 100S no difference, for it would in any case be more liquid than in cold start. As for the twenties and trecator, usually if the engine, due to structural features (gaps, etc) can work on such liquid oils, they usually are used just for the sake of increasing efficiency. But you fifty dollars to pour it on anything except power loss on the oil pump drive is not affected. At least my experience minder says so.
we have a system so that when organizovana banknote ( closed) the oil there is always, as soon as the engine starts the new oil in ven.number of people served there, even in the cold pressure provides powerful pump but only with the right oil.
40-UWC can be pouring we have anywhere in the simple engines of the older design ( 1.4, 1.6 Zeteki, 2.0 Duratec) except engines with Ti-VCT ( 1.6, 1.5 to 2.5 T) and in addition engines EcoBoost ( 1.0, 1.6, 2.0, 2.3) — there are only 20 TCA.
on the Ford stand where Ti-VCT only 30 and nothing else, since the channels are so thin that 40вка just don't have time to walk under pressure as it must be 30ткой.
Jennik
don't know how this option but certainly better than the original all new set!
the most important thing is not written — in order to avoid problems with the clutches in engines where is Ti-VCT a critical need to pour Only 30тку! It's official.of old tech.spec.Pomoco of seminar engineering.
Think it's more critical viscosity, and the presence in the right amount of anti-wear additives. API SN with 0.08 ZDDP and more without nifiga life to the valve mechanism obviously will not increase.
The gaps are always there )
For example, between the rotor and the housing, between the rotor and the star )
By the way wondering myself what kind of clearance between the cap and the rotor. need to find a live coupler to measure
There are no gaps as such, as there is portenkoi is sealed of Teflon with spring, and in other places they are more film by orders of magnitude. IMHO.
All right viscosity does not affect the work. But it is believed that a more viscous oil creates a thicker oil film, which has an impact on the clearance in the friction pairs
Jennik
don't know how this option but certainly better than the original all new set!
the most important thing is not written — in order to avoid problems with the clutches in engines where is Ti-VCT a critical need to pour Only 30тку! It's official.of old tech.spec.Pomoco of seminar engineering.
On the lancers with similar couplings dealers foolishly Lily Mobil 5w-50 for many years there were no problems. The work is a feedback system, so the viscosity is less influenced. I loverval target angles and the actual viscosity of 30 and 40 the result is the same.
I do not see now how it should work.
Just talking about the possibility of repair.
Well, at the end of the record wrote that you don't think repair is feasible.
I want a working clutch — buy a new one. But in some cases, minor problems can be corrected.
As for viscosity, it is eternal dispute ) to pour need not 30KU, and what the manufacturer recommends. If it is 5V-30 5V then-30 :)
don't know how this option but certainly better than the original all new set!
the most important thing is not written — in order to avoid problems with the clutches in engines where is Ti-VCT a critical need to pour Only 30тку! It's official.of old tech.spec.Pomoco of seminar engineering.
Or even more expensive, if on the way to collect all rake repair (mounted, assembled, tested, disassembled), and then buy new :)
AntonSagdakov
If the stator and rotor shlifanut in one size — it gets stuck during Assembly. In this design the Central part should be in 0.02-0.03 mm thinner at a sufficiently low roughness. As the practice of such devices, the observance of this gap is very critical. Less jam, more — will restart more than a worn factory. In General, we just like to climb, that's for sure :)
In fact, if all shlifanut and change, the price tag of the repair will be close to the price of a new clutch. So the game is not worth it
Yeah, good point about clearance of rotor-cap
Well, what to climb there without a Pont too )
If the stator and rotor shlifanut in one size — it gets stuck during Assembly. In this design the Central part should be in 0.02-0.03 mm thinner at a sufficiently low roughness. As the practice of such devices, the observance of this gap is very critical. Less jam, more — will restart more than a worn factory. In General, we just like to climb, that's for sure :)
shifters on the intake shafts came about in the 1980-81 year in the injector twincam installed on alfattah the latest releases, their design remained virtually unchanged until the removal of the engine of Alfa Romeo with the production of about 97 year.the design is very compact in my hands visited five of the inlet camshafts with phase shifters, all of them in about 25-30 years,was some minor backlash, but hours are not met
This clutch with the newer, chain motors. To JZ are a little other device but with the same principle.
It is with some cars the clutch? Dissecting (chayzer 1jz), there is another device or two pinion with slanting teeth and slanted teeth on the clutch housing on the inner side.
very interesting entry, I was wondering what is the clutch, now I know. was will happen on a Lexus RX 300 misfire in cylinders 2,4,6, agonized for a long time, the valve worked, put the other nothing changed, for interest opened the valve cover and tried to spin the camshaft, and he spun until zamacola to the stopper( about 45 degrees). then she went, and all because of coking of the engine. drove grandfather nor thought the car revs great.
Don't remember any new bahovskih motors chain are exploding at 150 thousand miles...
The chain is in any case safer. But much noisier.
chain of course are torn, and stretched. But 300K for the chain — not hard
Ford 100-120 timing belt with all rollers and belts with no clutch (thank God). It looks like the chain is reliable, but wear and other parts concerned. In General, thanks for the useful information.
mileage disassembled couplers are not known. I think that for 300+
In General, 200-250 pumpkins they run easy. depending on the degree of cleanliness of the owner and used oil.
And since then rules of Toyota timing belt replacement for 150 poke. changes with the clutch and the stars. but many either never change or change only the chain.
And what is the mileage of the clutch? How much resource Toyotovskogo vvti engine in the end)
at the end says "My opinion... I Consider it inappropriate to fix a clutch with a fairly strong wear. And when strong enough she was working."
:) it actually means, "want a working clutch? buy a new one" :)
So I was a supporter of a new clutch. For cheaper and safer to buy than to otremontirovat
better to buy new. System on FF 2 restayl 1.6 115 similar. Certainly all systems are similar and do not differ greatly. In the style of the author, if you want to repair the clutch the same way on FF2 restayl only do you need it?
ABNATOP
"plastic sealer" called "apex".
confused with a rotary engine. there are "sealers" are called apexes because located in the geometric center of the corner
I have two clutch Rusakovskaja motor. Took them off when replacing the chain, but the clutch working. The mileage 60ткм servicing dealer. Went my brother. If anyone should, can sell.
Due to the pressure of the oil. Valve admits oil either in the camera on one side or the other
to otselot stopper need less pressure than the crank rotor, plus the leakage between the chambers, so she is bursting
Thank you.
Also — can you tell me :)
NOT ME :)) but it is often on our cars. If during operation mamtora — no oil pressure to the clutch, the motor starts to "disaility". Understand, i.e. the type of work is loud and pounding. I assume that this is due to the fact that inside the clutch — sausage rotor relative to the stator. But it is not clear if there is no pressure — then the idea — the rotor and the stator should just spin at the same time? The stopper or in the work — in any case disengaged?
Retainer — the retainer. Intended for fixation of stable phases timing for starting and idling, set the angle of the most recent opening and closing of the intake valves. After starting the oil pressure is not enough, for the proper regulation of the phases, and to avoid strikes, the stopper is fixed, when the pressure enough to take him, he is given, and the clutch starts to operate.
Hi. If you know, tell pliz, on the appointment of a latch? As I understand it, when the engine stops, the rotor and stator must be coupled and working type pressure oil to disengage?.. The machine I have is different, but the principle is similar I think?
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Oh, thanks, I was wondering what is and what is this garbage in the garage is from the old master.
What they Price approximately?
well I'm just about mileage asked because the wear is very large and was wondering what mileage is it so reviled. usually 100-150 is when you wear no
the shifter is. mileage disassembled couplers are not known. I think that for 300+
the Toyota also has on both shafts, is called Dual-VVT-i
what mileage is the clutch exactly and how old is it?
I have the same crap vw is the shifter called, but precip the same. only two of them on the inlet and outlet shafts
Yeah, BMW VANOS, the Mitsu mivek. Honda have flowed in true Honda valve lift yet.
Well, actually every .Rochet as he wants :)
I think in the subject. then the engine bulkhead 70 thousand km ( believe praghosa), filled with 10w40 mobil, system error vvti popping up periodically and in uncertain environments. (( bent)). the week I go without flashes of the check, and then immediately after the reset drain, it goes out after starting the trail, then the trail is lit until reset. the minders have not yet traveled, can you advise what to do?
Lifehack
clear fires with a delay. I think that the clutch Fox ) it's not cracking at low load?
when driving on the rear, the sound of the car much other))
happy. you have to listen. There is a brief sound after starting the car, thought of lifters, is quick. maybe the clutch?
clear fires with a delay. I think that the clutch Fox ) it's not cracking at low load?
www.drive2.ru/l/5635513/ multiple scanners hooked up, the Chinese ones on eBay are sold, the program is also different tried, in the end, the mistake one
In General, there is a video which tells that they are not being repaired, though, and to understand them is still possible. No wonder the bolts are invented
sound — the sound of strife. hot from the clutch is diesel strekozami sound. this means that the coupling time is in the trash. oil, fluid, and seals clutches don't keep a crush
The article is really helpful, prompt, everything works as it should, but the sound from the clutch is so light on the hot plastic, in what could be the reason? To change the clutch, or it rules sound?
Lifehack
O. Crowding in the channel no? If the oil pump bye the motor may happen. Check out the stampede oil on the emergency sensor. At idle and revs
It was after replacing the oil pressure reducing valve winced and remained open after put another spring is stuck again
O. Crowding in the channel no? If the oil pump bye the motor may happen. Check out the stampede oil on the emergency sensor. At idle and revs
Camshaft Position — Timing Over-Retarded
1. valve permanently open — either he is dead or wiring problem, or a nut brains
2. but once the new valve. check the timing marks.
can the chain jumped?
maybe nothing to do with "cutoff", for example, sensor camshaft died. Error in Studio
Dismantled went standards.not yet hyped to the max was visaila error on the shafts after you reset up the intake and does not pass can who faced
Lifehack
if the crackling, high revs and all it's "hot"... that clutch the oil is not holding
Hello.I have a similar situation, but the speed in normal not a bit float, there are no errors.The DVS dezelic and periodic chirping in the area of the circuit on idle.I thought it's time chain replacement.Took off the cover, but the chain is not sagging, a fairly tight tension and the tensioner pushed or at full, but slightly not leaking.Understand that the fact the clutch only when I posted a chip from the valve Vvti.The sound disappeared immediately and check.Threw a check, did the same thing, same result.It is interesting that during dumping of the chips stratotone disappears, and dizelny the sound of the internal combustion engine remains, is this normal?
The main answer! Though not in a timely manner.
But you are certainly right. These symptoms now known to me.
The clutch is still repairable?
PS already found. Repair... Repair similar like the oil pump.
when I stop at a traffic light, the revs start to fall. so when pass through 1100-1300 in this moment wild crash occurs. XX it is clear 750-800... and they are.
Igoroty usual. The crackling is only in a narrow range.
And my friend has started to come apart on a regular basis...
if the crackling, high revs and all it's "hot"... that clutch the oil is not holding
how can you tell if clutch is dying? or completely dead?
is the following situation. approaching the traffic light, stopped, the revs drop and the area of 1200-1300 a wild crackling disappears... below... the motor as a whole pulls, lifts standards. the motor is clean inside. Clutch? or chain with dampers?
By hundredths cannot be counted ), and can be ten to remove. The main thing is not milimeters)
Tell me, how many hundredths of a mm can shlifanut cover the clutch? The fact that the entire surface shlifanut this by itself, I have output from spring
Nope, have not solved this problem. Waiting for a miracle now) But in fact many say that it could be the oil pump. You are requested to check the oil pressure in the engine. If you do not help, then either the chain tensioner again to change, or don't know what. Maybe the oxygen sensor or MAF needs to be changed. So XS. If razberetes, write)
Good day ! I have a similar problem can not overcome the diesel sound and noise when starting the engine cold, have you solved this problem?)
Tell me what could be the problem. I bought a new clutch VVT-I on your engine 1zz-fe and almost immediately began to rattle the chain on cold start. Mainly notice the noise of the chain on the cold, but not rare were the cases when the motor is well warmed up, traveled on it, and drowned when charging get the same rattle of the chain. The clutch took the Original 10000r. Also changed the Valve VVT-I on the original mesh cleaning, the new Hydrometrical also put the original. Circuit new original, track shoes, Idler and tensioner are new. The second star of the camshaft is also new. All was exhibited on labels and coupler were set as was from the factory (diluted according to the label), that is unlocked. After assembling the engine for the camshaft to twist and realized that the coupling is maximally stretched chain, then all the rules. Separate camshaft for the coupling did not rotate. Also noticeable constant diesel sound when the engine is running. The engine block capitalise and sharpened. The mechanical in everything else no problem. There remains only the timing belt and Clutch. Last clutch was also a problem and to capitali was sometimes rattles on cold start. But somehow have passed since the oil change. Looks like she was washed from the oil to Castrol 5w30. And the new clutch set, because he decided that it would help solve the problem with a diesel engine. And it is not something that has not helped, and made worse. Now the coupling with the marriage from the factory are they? Does it make sense to disassemble the new clutch? Hydrometrical could be counterfeit or non-working?