Changing oil to another ... - Toyota Corolla Runx, 1.8 liter, 2001
…hello to all fans of drive2.ru…
I decided to tell you how I changed the oil.
The last two times I changed it myself in the garage, and left it overnight so that the oil would run away more ...
Last time I couldn’t unscrew the oil filter, I unscrewed it with a hammer and a screwdriver, I thought that it was so tightened at the station, it turned out that it wasn’t ...
This time I also could not unscrew the filter, and again a screwdriver and a hammer came to my rescue.
I'm thinking about shooters...
For a little over a year, Toyota 5w-30 decided to fill in Motul 5w-30, synthetics, Toyota then mineral water ...
When I drained the oil, it was so black, I can even take a picture, a little bit of it remained ...
Although more than 5000 km. never go...
Why is it not clear...
Someone will say the engine is dirty, a year ago I opened the valve cover and it was clean, and after that I started pouring Toyota ...
Draw your own conclusions ...
I have already done ...
Let's see how Motul behaves...
But in my opinion the car began to warm up faster ...
PS Don't forget about fives...
I'm not saying that Toyota is bad ...
Look, I recently found ...
I don’t know if it’s true or not, everyone decides for himself ...
gsm-3.narod.ru/maslo_cold.html
So you need to look in the search on the drome ...
I’ll look for a little later, I became interested in how it doesn’t get smeared there ...
When you looked at the filters, they seemed to be clean ...
But you don’t remember exactly where it is written about it, the desire to read something like that only comes to 5.3 ...
Oil cannot constantly flow there, because the elevator is turned on due to the oil pressure in the system, which at 5.300 begins to flow into these channels. On the drome I read about it. By the way, there is still a filter on the elevators, have you ever changed it?
I have never heard how it is washed, but in my opinion the oil always gets there, they explained to me that VVTL-I always opens at any speed, it always happens a little bit in its own way, and at 6000 it opens to the full ...
But about buttered sausages I think that oil is poured ...
I wonder how the lift oil channels are washed correctly? After all, oil enters them only after 6,000 rpm. I read on the forums that people from these channels generally picked out some kind of butter sausages =)
Damn, but it’s black…
I’ll get better and take pictures of Toyota… You’ll
see…
it is clear that synthetics are needed for the winter =)
The oil should fade by 1000-1500. Tar xs ... you certainly know better.
And if the mineral water does not start at -20, what will you do?
And is the oil supposed to dim about 3000 km ...
And for 5000 tar...
the fact that the oil is black says that it washes your engine =) Do you think where the coke and all sorts of debuggings should go? they settle into the oil if there are good detergent additives ... I would think about changing it if the oil was as pure as dew =) whether mineral water or synthetics, there is no difference ... the main thing is 5-30
yakov
no, it's light.
in order for everything to merge, you need to jack up one side and there is still a lot of flowing down
Which side exactly?
just jack up the front, in the middle and it still merges decently.
0v40 because:
1) a motor with a decent prolbeg
2) at elevated oil temperatures, it becomes thinner and reaches the norm by v30.
if it’s interesting or incomprehensible, then I’ll chew it in HP :)
yakov
hockey, I'll probably change it at the weekend.
took today visco 7000, 0v40
Why 0w40 and not 0w30?
What do you have there dubak ...
I always changed at 5 thousand km ...
It happened that a little more than five ...
It turns out that oil at about 5 thousand loses its properties ...
It is necessary that the oil at 5 thousand is still normal ...
And then if it is dead, then this is not good ...
It means that you need to get off the Toyota oil ...
quite right :)
so you need to change it then in winter you can 5-6 thousand and in summer when you fry it 3-4 thousand ... it turns out like this?
believe me (in Yeniseisk) the climate is much tougher than yours and Krasnoyarsk =)
We have the same climate as yours…
I have a car in the garage, it doesn’t matter if it’s -30, -40, it’s only -15…
I read about Toyota here on a Japanese site…
It is written that mineral water, and on many sites it is written that it is better to replace 3000-5000 km. these are ours, turbo 1500-3000 km.
Therefore, it darkens about 3000 km. and tar 5000 km.
hmm. interesting ...
our motors and 1zz are known for very thin channels and because of this, thick oil is IMPOSSIBLE because it can cause oil starvation
: warmer or the climate is not harsh as we have it all year 5v30 =)
And I read in a book in ours that 2zz cannot be poured with 0w-20 and 5w-20, well, it ends with 20.
It appears to be very liquid...
no, it's normal in the summer! :)
in general, in our motors on the docks, only 0v20, 5v20, 5v30, 10v30 (in the heat).
if there is oil, it starts at 0w40.
It turns out that 5w-40 is better for the summer. 30 won't work in hot weather...
I also poured 5w30 and then everyone says that in winter it’s better than 0, why do you need 5w40? I don't think it's necessary
And I pour 5w-30 all year round
And that's it ...
I want to switch to 5w-40, but for now I'm thinking.
Yes, and there is no such thing, the whole city traveled around ...
a friend of mine (an avid racer and tuner) said that he pours only 0v40 in 2zz, especially if the mileage is over 100 thousand
I have a sister and parents for 2 years, they have only been pouring it, I just haven’t found another one that would be 0w40
I don’t know what kind of oil ... I
started looking for a box on the Internet ...
I’ve heard about such an oil for the first time ...
everything will not run away, of course, but it’s a lot ...
no, it’s not all the same, look how you are on the traffic jam, I know that you need the left side on 1z, but I haven’t done it myself yet
yakov
no, it's light.
in order for everything to merge, you need to jack up one side and there is still a lot of flowing down
It still won’t completely run away ...
But it doesn’t matter which side to jack up?
aka-mazai
You will never drain 100 percent ...
Yash for the winter 5-30 is not very ... I already filled myself with 0-40
we have a mobile 0v40 arctic 2600r ... and 1l 600r, total more than 3 thousand
Yes, I will change the oil again in December ...
I’ll think about it closer there ...
You will never drain 100 percent ...
Yash for the winter 5-30 is not very ... I already filled myself with 0-40
no, it's light.
in order for everything to merge, you need to jack up one side and there is still a lot of flowing down
Yes, I've heard a lot about Motul, both good and bad ...
One thing interests me ...
Is the 5w-30 mobile very dark?
It’s just that the Motul is twice as dark as the Toyota…
And I don’t flush
the engine either… Because everything won’t merge and the flush glass will remain…
I join the comment aka-mazay
if the oil turns black, it means that it washes, even if the opening of the valve showed that it was clean!
you do not forget that our motors are spinning up to 8260 thousand?
and this increases the temperature-wear, and since the temperature means more coke ...
I pour mobil-1 5v30, on the 1zz engine the oil turned black by about 5-6 thousand, now I poured the same oil into 2zz, the oil turned black by about 2500 thousand. but before that I don’t know what was poured there and when I poured it without flushing.
I know about Motul that it’s good, but somehow I heard that it’s better not to use our motor. Although I can’t justify this!
I’ll flood the mobile again for the winter (according to all the properties and characteristics of the same Toyota, I just don’t sell Toyota 5w30) and in the summer I’ll open the lid so that I want to change the livt bolts for prevention and see if this will definitely be b / f.
I got a little sick, I didn’t go out ...
Is it burning with you?
And how does the car behave in the cold?
Just if the oil is not a fake, then it is any good ...
And I, like the previous owners, fill in Castrol 5v30, are there positive reviews for Castrol or will I be spat on right away? ))
If the engine behaves normally and everything is fine (pah pah pah), then don’t worry, pour castrol ...
If you are sure that Castrol is good, then pour it, I just subtract about Toyota that it is mineral water and all that, I decided to switch to another one ...
And how often do you change the oil?
130000 +
I don’t remember exactly ... But I follow the oil regularly, I need to take care of the engine))
One guy has a castrol that burns out in the summer, but he constantly burns it, be sure to keep an eye on the oil in the summer, the castrol burns well ... It
stood for three days and started up ...
And what is the mileage?
From replacement to replacement, the level does not drop much, but about starting it in winter, it stood for 3 days at -30 - 35, then it started up ... it creaked for a minute, but it started up))) Yes, and I haven’t touched it at all for a month, it’s in the garage . (shore)
The last owner changed the rings and caps 25 thousand ago …
And what are you pouring?
If the mileage is more than 100,000, then it is better to fill in Motul 5-40 so as not to eat.
Special in that (as they say in the common people) they are disposable, although many people are already shelling them and doing whatever they want with it.
But in our city, I have not heard what they would do ...
I count on a little zhor ...
According to the passport it is written that there is a zhor, and I also talked to a peasant at the station, before that he constantly made me 2zz and looked (great man) he says 30 lei will be fine, zhor a little bit is normal ...
What is special, enlighten? 30 from 40 is not much different. Only the more liquid holds worse in a worn engine. The channels allow 40 oil, but in worn moving parts, a thicker film is already needed.
Well, you try, maybe. you will get 30.
The tubules are special there, if there is more viscosity, then the engine will have a different return, it will spin hard, and the worst oil starvation ...
For the summer I’m thinking about Motul 10w-30 ...
I’ll see how 5w-30 will be, the previous owner said that he didn’t eat, but he filled Shel 5w-30 ...
Somewhere I read in such an engine a guy filled in 10w-60 when I read it I was in shock ...
I had it on the ranx, now it was flooded with 5w-40 on the virgin, the last owner said he didn’t eat a gram at all.
Now I want to change 5w-30 for Motul ...
So I think ...
the floor of the probe from replacement to replacement is normal. I change it every 5000
And zhor how much?
On my Ranks it was filled to the max, and by 5000 thousand it eats up to the middle of the scoop ...
I heard this is normal, for such an engine ...
motul 8100 5-40. recently after a complete engine overhaul.
rings are not the only thing where oil clearance is important.
Well, it’s possible to shake it up due to the fact that the speed is floating, at idle a little bit ...
When I took the car for diagnostics, I stopped by a friend (I had served 2zz with him for a year and a half with friends normally) he did a complete engine diagnostics, said everything was fine ... He
also said that the fuel system is a little dirty, then it will be necessary to clean it ...
But it starts up without problems and drives normally ...
And how does it tweak?
I just haven’t driven a mechanic for a long time, and I don’t remember how it was ...
I don’t remember the first one exactly, in my opinion 12.5 the second is almost 13.5 or 14 and the rest are 12.5
1zz) see the blog.
compression everywhere is about 12
, there is no fundamental technological difference between 1st and 2nd. but oil requirements are different.
It took me 5-30 500g per 2000km! And this is on a fully overhauled engine. Switched to 40 — all as if removed by hand. From replacement to replacement, it took a third of the probe, which is the norm for waste.
I understand, I’ll see what the consumption will be, if I switch to 40.
I need to drive at least 1000 on 5w-30, otherwise I drove only 100 km ...
No, the fragility of the engine is not related to the oil channels. And everything is elementary sleeved and repaired. 2zz is still Toyota reliable.
The 5-30 oil recommended by the manufacturer is relevant for a new car. For engines with 100+ mileage, it is necessary to increase the viscosity (in the end, you don’t pour gel there, but just a LITTLE thicker, despite the fact that you can’t tell live 30 from 40 how minimal the difference
is) Understand that the lubrication of mechanisms is based on an oil wedge. With an increased gap (and this is an inevitable reality on used engines), thinner oil is more easily squeezed out from there and the film of the desired thickness does not hold.
Therefore, practice shows that it is necessary to pour a little thicker than recommended.
I myself used to, as you thought, poured 5-30. But now I switched to 40 and generally forgot what consumption is and topped up the oil.
You yourself will determine what is best for your engine, try it.
Wow, 10w60 is a lot ...
I read and think now I’ve filled in 5w30 and how I started to eat ...
It turned out that I didn’t ...
I switched to Motul for 5w40 all year round, and it eats me ...
The previous owner poured Liquid Molly 10v60, terribly thick oil.) says he didn’t eat a gram, well, such a thick oil would still be ... after 2 months he changed to Toyota 5v30 (for winter), surprisingly already 5 thousand travel and really not a gram! the maximum level is as it was) by the summer I plan to switch to 5v40, after all, the mileage is 104 thousand and burn a bit)