Oil change, preparation for winter) - Toyota Corolla Fielder, 1.8 liter, 2001
Parts in the photo: 0888009105So it's the very not very pleasant time of slippery roads and warming up the car =))
1. Oil change. I didn’t think about the choice for a long time, as I immediately settled on the original, Toyota castle sm-5w30, there are several options, sk, sl, sm markings, about black canisters I was told that it’s not like Taiwan, you shouldn’t pour it, I heard more recommendations did not have. I asked about the synthetics of the same manufacturer, I was a little surprised, the price is 4r and also to order. I decided that for now I’ll get by with mineral water =) So, in the end: Flushing zic-flush (600r), Vic-111 filter (150r), Toyota 5w30 oil (1200r), DIY work (0r).
2. Cleaning the cabin filter, there’s nothing to tell here, I removed the wash and put it back, as a result, the stove began to blow better, but since after washing the effect of the villi went nowhere, there were smells of exhaust from the car in front in the cabin. I think I still have to buy =))) Or do it yourself =)
3. I took off the casting =(((((I put a stock ... I thought ... Hmm ... all the same sneakers decide ...
That's basically everything =) In short, so to speak =) Unsubscribe about oil, who knows about him, and about his own, preferably.I
wish everyone a nail or a wand! =)
Spare parts Engine oil, 1 liter 0888009105 TOYOTA LEXUS
Well, judge for yourself, what is the power of your motor, and, accordingly, the load?
For comparison:
- Mineral oils hold the breaking load of the oil film from 1 ton to 2 tons per 1 square cm, then the film bursts.
- Synthetic (PAO) oils hold an oil film breaking load already from 6 tons to 10 tons per 1 square cm.
- Synthetic (ester) oils hold the load on the break of the oil film already from 18 tons to 24 tons per 1 square cm.
You understand, because of the hydraulic chain tensioners and because of VVTLi, it is not recommended to use oil thicker than 30 in everyday life, so it is desirable that with the same film thickness it holds higher loads!
It is not necessary to pour only esters, but at least Synthetic (PAO-PolyAlphaOlefins) oils. They will keep the engine longer than mineral water and hydrocracking!
More on oils here:
www.drive2.ru/users/ylevi…4062246863888282678/#post
Yes, I love it very much, just how many people have a drain of opinions =) Why do you think that oil is not suitable?
be side
111 genuinely sensitive, on the 2nd
2zz goes 113, it's longer.
and 111 is thicker and slightly higher than 110, it goes mainly to rear-wheel drive Toyotas from 2 liters.
But the secret is very simple - they all have the same thread and almost the same seat, so in fact you can stick any of them! But I would still recommend sticking to the recommendations of the factory!
And how about oil, mineral water in such a motor? You don't love him!
corollaz
nonsense normal oil … the same mobile 1!
it was better to have a mobile phone and take 5-30, it's real
Flushing can be used, but it is better not to abuse it, that is, no more than 1 time in 3 replacements.
Better yet, just change the oil early so that deposits do not accumulate!
I change it at 2500-3000 km in the summer, since I often turn the engine, in the winter at 4000, I use flushing 1 time in 5 replacements.
Moreover, if flushing is used, then only on a synthetic basis, without the content of oil distillants, so that it is safe for oil seals and gaskets. And preferably in the form of additives to the old oil. I recommend watching quality ones.
And as for the concerns about the oil seals, if they are worn out, then they just need to be changed, but we change the rubber on the wheels, when it wears out, the oil seals are also worn out, which means they need to be replaced. High-quality flushing does not corrode the soloist, but the soot and slag that has stuck to it, and if the oil seal is already worn out, then by itself the oil will begin to go through it!
And by the way, flushing is not intended to switch from oil to another oil, but to wash off varnish and sludge deposits that have accumulated in the engine.
Something like this =)
Den filter threshing floor IMHO! the valve in it works every other time, at the expense of flushing, I’ll say this, if you change the brand of oil, then you need to wash it, although I myself am wary of this process, because they wash everything and even the excess, there are aggressive additives in the washes that harm all sorts of rubber bands, etc. etc.