Periodically started to drop fps in all games
Hello, at me such problem: the computer 3-4 years, he collected himself, before everything worked properly and with all the tasks the PC has coped with a Bang, but lately( about a year ) there was a constant subsidence fps, absolutely any game, with any settings, every 4 minutes the fps drops from 120 to 20 for 5-10 seconds, and then again 120( figuratively speaking), etc.At first I sinned on an ancient crappy hdd, bought an SSD from kingston, the overall PC performance was better, but with these freezes, nothing has changed. Then he began to think maybe a capacitor was leaking on the mother Board or in the PSU, checked everything - no faults on the eye was found. I saw an asrock motherboard that supported RAM is not my bars, but before that I was working with these straps, so let go of that thought.
Yesterday again all cleaned, replaced the paste, reinstalled Windows, put all the firewood, set the game to check what it's like to be, no change - still freezes. But the temperature in idle using SpeedFan seems to me too high for CPU( make the screen. the second screen is included with the game)
Also that is confusing to the extreme cleaning power were heard sounds like the cooler is clicked the record some of the internal protection, now it seems no, but when you shake the PSU, it is like something is shaking inside( and it's not the PSU because I have it completely removed and was shaking purely cost with all the pieces on it)
Help to understand, at least determine what the problem is.
Here iron:
CPU: AMD FX-8350
Video card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 OC
Motherboard: ASRock 970 Extreme3
Power supply: Inwin PowerMan IP P750BK3-3 750w
RAM: Geil Evo Corsa GOC38GB1600C9DC 2gb x 4 strap
The cooler on the processor: GlacialTech Igloo H46 PWM
SSD: Kingston SUV400S37/240G
GlebasterSpal
You have a very high CPU temperature at load. For FXа is too much. Try to reset the temperature to check for drawdown again. Pomonitor statistics voltages, temperatures and frequencies in AIDA 64. If the percent of the high temperature, the chart will be visible.
If the thermal grease on the processor changed, that seems like a bad fit the base of the cooler to the lid of the processor (if there is a normal thermal paste and not toothpaste).
Judging by this video, the motherboard resets the frequency due to overheating MOSFETs (because it is not very cooling).
Spoiler
Spoiler - see from 5:20 dude explains.
Typically a server-side bridge is one of the sources of overheating.
And at full throttle! The processor consumes at least 200W.
Spoiler
P. S I Think mounting the cooler fails. Pay attention to the design of this type is:
Spoiler
The radiator tightly covers rock, good momentum.
Probably true of the North bridge, I touched the heatsink with your finger and two seconds max was able to hold him there, very hot. And on the circuits supplying power PCT PTS hot radiator. I need to upgrade the cooling or just a motherboard change ?
GlebasterSpal
Look at the money. The simple to pick up the mount on the North bridge. It is the inside of the 300r, but given the size - it's hard!
Spoiler
Mainly found square mounting:
Spoiler
Similarly to simple is added to replace the cooler(CPU) and improving cooling in the case:
Spoiler
This is a standard scheme: blue - cold stream, red - hot. But now BP put on the bottom. So it's not as accurate.
And the most popular way is to remove the side cover(at your own risk!)
Replacement motherboard for one that nice thick radiators - it's worth it. BUT pick so that the old RAM worked! Otherwise, this additional spending.
GlebasterSpal
Throw a screen frequencies (Clocks) AÏDA, see the voltage drawdown percent. If drawdown frequency percent. Or it says about the CPU overheating or overheating MOSFETs (power circuit) motherboard. Overheating of the bridge a few other glitches.
Throw off the temperature of the processor and MOSFETs 95% of the reason.
To buy new mother (for the better) the case of the latter.
In models with 890-990 chipset such problems much less. I have a 890 (mainboard Asus M4A89GTD Pro) chipset and everything is cold, except percent (overclocking).
Tomorrow I'll be home - make screen clocks, nakahashi little cooler on the supply chain and a large cooler from the case to the motherboard, put on the North bridge - lag was smaller, but still there - probably on Prots need also cooling to change
GlebasterSpal
If the cooler on the CPU is fine and with thermal paste in order. Check the fan speed on it, is it possible to post above (it should be higher in the passport ok. 1600 +-10%). Preferably on a cooler to put 2 fans with speed not less than about 2000 (for 120mm).
The cooler is a bit weak for this CPU. 2 normal fan can slightly improve the situation with the condition that there is a normal pressure the base of the cooler and everything is in order with tempestas (application and quality).
This cooler, judging by the reviews there are problems with mounting for AMD, it is desirable to read, maybe you have similar.
Until you solve the problem with cooling off the housing side wall and forget to install them.
The Chinese are generally very funny people. They are close to the radiators put capacity with a low maximum allowable temperature, thus have a stable sales. Here in BP, the biggest Bank at 85 degrees usually cheaper. And there are not 85 in the summer, and closer to 100. In short, it dries, ripples become more, then following it dries, sags the power on one of the lines, the block adds stress...and on the other lines conder without a supply voltage and BUUUH! I have so one block was burned, smoke was Boo. You see if she is there you have the resistor turned or flutter her otgnivshie insights from the giblets. In modern equipment the condenser is the most rotten part, and she dies, and all for a drag. Of course, the idea should work, but not the fact, the chinks in the yuan hanged himself. And if you do not buhnet, it is even worse. Softly Trilling in General, all of the capacity on the motherboard.
By the way, swollen lid is not required. Maybe just to bask, so you can neatly collect a computer on the Desk, run and touch cover all of the conder. Gently, with one hand, without fanaticism.
In General it would be good to borrow an oscilloscope and ESR meter. Without divination and shamanism, see what output PSU on each line, then run through the conder and deadwood to change...and there in one BP 15 of them, the replacement method of the bulldozer will cost a pretty penny.
Spoiler
Here are the results of the test after the farm and replace the thermal paste with кпт8 on DeepCool Z3, friezes by the way, these no longer appear, but the performance still not the same. Noticed that the radiator is on the CPU, and is in contact with only about 70% of the area of the stone, so this school I didn't notice...