The power supply is heating up in games
I bought a new power supply for 750w DEEPCOOL PK750D. It seems to work fine, but when I go into games, it heats up and becomes hot. For a block of 2 days, there can be no dust, nothing else can be there, the location is upper. Before that, there was some kind of Player at 500w and it did not warm up so much. The only thing is that my video card is hot and maybe it's because of the air inside the case, but the last PSU did not warm up so much. What could it be, otherwise I’ll take a point so as not to burn anything for myselfTopman_S
Topman_S wrote:
I bought a new power supply... when I go into games, it heats up and gets hot...
How hot and how was it determined, by a device or by hand?
...nothing else can be dust there, the location is top...
The point is not only in the location of the PSU (upper / lower), but also in the purge of the case. Of course, the lower location of the PSU is better, but when the cooling in the case is organized correctly, it will work fine with the upper PSU. In order for the case to have more or less normal cooling, fans are needed for intake and exhaust. More airflow means better cooling. This is not counting the fact that the CPU and video card must have their own normal cooling.
...my video card is hot and maybe it's because of the air inside the case, but the last PSU didn't warm up that much...
Depends on the PSU itself (including its cooling) + did it work on the same config , or something has changed. And it may also depend on how the cooler is located on the CPU. If there is a tower on it, which is rotated so that the air from the video card drives into the power supply (from bottom to top) - the PSU will probably heat up more. In this case, it's better to turn the tower cooler towards the rear wall of the case (usually, when the side cover is removed, it looks like from right to left). It's even better if there is at least one case blown cooler right behind such a tower, preferably as large as possible in diameter (which allows you to install a seat in the case).
SonyK_2 wrote:
How hot and how was it determined, by device or by hand?
It was determined by hand. I noticed that the cover over the PSU is warm and that the back of the PSU is hot. When I unscrewed the lid and tried again with my hand, the bp was quite hot, I tried to remove the side cover and play like that, and the bp became so warm.
SonyK_2 wrote:
In order to have more or less normal cooling in the case, you need fans for intake and exhaust. More airflow - better cooling
The fact is that there really are no case valves in the case, and this is exactly what I attribute to the reason why the PSU is hot. Yesterday I ordered 2 120mm valves, 1 for intake and one for exhaust.
SonyK_2 wrote:
This is not counting the fact that the CPU and video card must have their own normal cooling.
The processor has excellent cooling, it seems to give out under loads of a maximum of about 50-55 degrees, but in idle time 28 somewhere, but from the video card the cooling is bad, I have had an old gtx 660ti for a long time and even completely with changed thermal paste and cleaned from dust on average on it at loads of 77 degrees.
SonyK_2 wrote:
Depends on the PSU itself (including its cooling) + whether it worked on the same config, or something was changed. And it may also depend on how the cooler is located on the CPU.
The last PSU worked on the same assembly and there were no problems with temperature. The tower cooling of the CPU is turned to the right, that is, facing the front cover of the case. There seems to be an OTR on the bp, that is, if it overheats, it would turn off, but there was nothing like that, and there were no slowdowns or anything else.
Topman_S
Topman_S wrote:
...The fact is that there really are no case valves in the case ... yesterday I ordered 2 120mm valves ...
Better late than never ... If the coolers are with PWM (PWM), their rotation speed can be regulated the motherboard itself (depending on the temperature inside the case) - provided that it has a normal temperature sensor, and 4-pin connectors for connecting case fans.
... the video card has poor cooling, I have an old gtx 660ti for a long time
Here the question is not age, but that its cooling system effectively blows hot air onto the back of the case. A more or less normal air-cooled graphics card should be designed to blow out most of the heated air through the holes in the metal plate that attaches it to the case (where the video outputs are located).
... The tower cooling of the CPU is turned to the right, that is, facing the front cover of the case.
If the blowing from the tower goes to the back wall of the case (which has the upper location of the PSU), everything is fine. When the power supply is located at the bottom, blowing from the processor tower can also be done upwards, especially if there are ventilation holes on which several coolers can be placed.
SonyK_2 wrote:
If the coolers are with PWM (PWM), their rotation speed can be regulated by the motherboard itself
. I don’t know if those I ordered have PWM, but the outputs for the fans are 3-pin.
SonyK_2 wrote:
If blowing from the tower goes to the back wall of the case (which has the top location of the PSU) - everything is fine
. Yes, the blowing goes to the back wall of the case.
Until the fans arrive, I opened the side cover of the case and the PSU stopped heating in games, the cover above it is not even warm at all, and the PSU itself is just warm, and the air that it blows out was warm.
As far as I understood, the matter is most likely not in the power supply unit, but simply in insufficient cooling inside the case, because of which the power supply unit did not take cold air, but hot air and warmed up. Let's see what happens when I put the valves, I hope the problem will disappear
Topman_S
Topman_S wrote:
I don't know if the ones I ordered have PWM...
When the coolers were bought, were they not interested in the description? - with PWM usually cost more.
... 3-pin fan outputs.
Everything, or is there at least one 4-pin? - if the latter, you can connect both to it, through a "hub":
Spoilerhttps:
//ru.deepcool.com/products/Accessories/accessories/2021/13786.shtml 3-pin outputs - most likely they will work at constant speed. Or put an additional cooler rotation controller (reobas) so that you can do it yourself.
... As far as I understood, the matter is most likely not in the power supply unit, but simply in insufficient cooling inside the case, because of which the power supply unit did not take cold air, but hot air and warmed up ...
It's a pity that it was immediately incomprehensible and I had to create a topic .. . :(
SonyK_2 wrote:
Everything, or is there at least one 4-pin?
All the same, there is one 4-pin just looked, 2 3-pin and 1 four
SonyK_2 wrote:
It's a pity that it was immediately incomprehensible and I had to create a topic ..
In principle, I immediately guessed that this was most likely the case, but I still wanted to know the opinions of others also to make sure
Topman_S
Topman_S wrote:
All the same, there is one 4-pin just looked ...
Is the 4-pin one case, or processor? - if for the CPU, then it is better to leave it as it is, to power the tower. And if there is at least one 4-pin cabinet - you can do as I wrote above. Under the spoiler in the post above there is a photo and a link to the manufacturer's website.
PS I bought the same one, powered 2 case coolers through it - blown and blown. The tower is connected separately - the motherboard has its own 4-pin connector for it.
The only thing you need to be prepared for when using coolers with PWM is a sharp increase / decrease in noise with an increase / decrease in the load on the hardware (and, as a result, temperatures). And this can happen almost constantly (especially during games) - quieter, louder, quieter, louder, etc. If this does not suit you, it is better to consider the option with reobas - you will have to regulate it yourself, but there will be no noise "jumps".
... in principle, I immediately guessed that this was most likely the case, but I still wanted to know the opinion of others ...
Here the opinion of others is not particularly needed. If it heats up when the case is closed, but not when the sidewall is removed, it is obvious that there is not enough cooling (drawing air through the case).
SonyK_2
In order not to be quieter or louder, the points of the curve of the graph of the fan speed - temperature are rebuilt, and the temperature delta is also added. In the regular software of motherboards, this is all there, if not ancient garbage at all. At Gigabyte, 7 points of the curves are configured + the delta slider moves by +5 degrees in order to level out temperature jumps. Asus has a 3-point curve in Fan expert, but you can adjust the speed of acceleration and deceleration of the fan in seconds with an accuracy of tenths. In addition, each connector on the fan can be configured separately and tied to the desired temperature sensor, such as: VRM, CPU, chipset and PCI. If the motherboard is fancy, then it happens that there are connectors for connecting remote temperature sensors. So, at the moment, all these reobass are no more archaic, apart from the fact that that it is possible to switch the connector between DC / PWM modes, so 3pin is no longer found on motherboards, but 4 pins are installed everywhere. Summing up all this, we can say that the fans are adjusted once to an acceptable noise / cooling level for the user, and it is forgotten until the platform is updated.
zPOINTMANz
zPOINTMANz wrote:
In order not to be quieter-louder, the points of the curve of the fan speed - temperature graph are rebuilt, and the temperature delta is also added. In the regular software of motherboards, this is all there, if not at all ancient garbage ...
I just have such "garbage" (the config is in the profile).
...the fans are adjusted once to a user acceptable noise/cooling level and forgotten until the platform is upgraded.
Thanks for the clarification, but the noise from the coolers does not bother me. Might be useful for TC.
Topman_S
Topman_S wrote:
Case
Then you can try to connect 2 in 1 using a splitter, but both coolers will spin at the same speed. And just in case, it would be nice to clarify what power the 4-pin case connector on the motherboard supports. If both cooler capacities exceed it, there may be consequences for it - especially if the power system is relatively weak.
Topman_S In
general, your system should not "eat" a lot. if the bp was bought in a store, bring it back. Was this bp bought for a further upgrade? if not, why the hell do you need 750 watts?
SonyK_2
Come on b85 is not rubbish yet. Moreover, you have an asus and she knows how to do everything described, through the AI ​​suite. I myself had a hero on the z97 chipset.
evil.burmistroff
Yes, for an upgrade, I plan to change the video card, and for now I changed the power supply
evil.burmistroff wrote:
in general, your system should not "eat" much. if the bp was bought in a store, bring it back
, it’s clear that it doesn’t eat much, but it produces heat because of which the bp gets warm. If it turns out that the matter is still in the bp, then it’s clear what I will change
Topman_S
Topman_S wrote:
...If it turns out that it's all the same in the power supply, then it's clear what I will change . I
'm waiting for the results of installing coolers, if possible, unsubscribe.
SonyK_2 wrote:
I'm waiting for the results of installing coolers, if possible, unsubscribe.
Ok, just today I’ll put it, I’ll write it off in the evening
SonyK_2 wrote:
I'm waiting for the results of installing coolers, if possible, unsubscribe.
I installed fans in general, and played for 20-30 minutes, the power supply did not heat up at all, well, at least the cover above it was cold, and the air blown out was not even warm, but also cold, the back cover of the bp was barely warm. Let's see what happens next, I hope the problem and not show up
Topman_S
Topman_S wrote:
...Let's see what happens next, I hope the problem doesn't appear
If the coolers are normal and the temperature in the room doesn't rise sharply, the PSU shouldn't heat up like before. But when the temperature in the room rises (for example, in the heat in summer, especially if the air conditioner is not used) - it may and will heat up more, but still not the same as without coolers.
SonyK_2
Completely agree. Coolers vinga led fan-01 if you are interested, look, but they seem to be normal and the video card has dropped in temperatures by 5-6 degrees and the power supply unit has stopped warming up in general chic.
Topman_S
Topman_S wrote:
...vinga led fan-01 coolers... seem to be normal...
Only time will tell. Normal ones can work for years, some nonsense can "rattle" in a couple of years, or even fall apart (if it's really badly done). It’s a pity that there are 3 pins, for me personally it would be better if there was a 4th pin for PWM instead of backlighting.
PS If I took a 120 mm case cooler, I would take this one:
https://ru.deepcool.com/products/Cooling/fans/2021/14915.shtml
At the most there are similar ones: UF80 for blowing in and UF92 for blowing out (such seats in the case). The surface of the coolers is "rubberized" (slightly bending), they can be fastened not only with screws, but also with silicone "nails" included in the kit, which additionally reduces vibration and noise. I do not need a backlight - the case is closed, it will not be visible anyway.
...the video card dropped in temperature by 5-6 degrees and the PSU stopped heating up...
So it should be - case fans improve case ventilation.